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This sponsored trip was organised by the Austria Tourism Board (ATB) as part of a campaign. The opinions expressed within this article are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions and beliefs of ATB.
Most of our snowboarding experience has been gained through gliding across the French Alps, without giving it much thought to explore other areas of Europe. In 2017, we spent one day on the slopes in Austria. With minimal snowboarding experience in Austria, we jumped at the chance to explore some of the best Austrian ski resorts, Ischgl and St. Anton, when invited by the Austrian Tourism Board.
Austria is known to be a firm favourite for many skiers worldwide, this is owing to the reliable snowfall, authentic charm and gemütlichkeit. The concept of ‘Hygge’ for Scandinavians is a part of their identity, much like ‘Gemütlichkeit’ is for Austrians.
Gemütlichkeit (pronounced Geh-mootlik-kite) is the ultimate feeling; whilst not easily translated into English, many describe it as an atmosphere or setting such as a winter scene surrounded by friends in a cosy setting, relaxed and full of good cheer and kindness.
This makes Austrian ski resorts stand out a step above the rest, an experience that cannot be replicated elsewhere in Europe, with warm hospitality combined with outstanding snow conditions. Skiing has been part of Austrian culture for over a century, contributing to the success of Alpine skiing across the world with Mathias Zdarsky, Hannes Schneider and Toni Seelos as Austrian skiing pioneers.
Ischgl presents one of the best ski experiences in Austria, relatively underrated when compared to other well-known ski resorts. Ischgl has earned a place on the map for more intermediate and experienced skiers and is one of the top freeride destinations in the world.
This guide will share our experience of staying in Ischgl, with detailed insight into what it’s like to ski and snowboard in the resort and what non-skier activities there are to keep you entertained after a day of skiing.
Where is Ischgl located?
Ischgl is tucked away in the Paznaun Valley, within the most western part of the Tirol region in Austria. Tirol is bounded by the Austrian regions of Vorarlberg and Salzburg; to the south, you’ll discover Italy and the areas of South Tyrol and Trentino. Ischgl is located in the heart of the Paznaun Valley, the centre of winter adventure for skiing, snowboarding, and so much more.
The Paznaun Valley follows the source of the glacial Trisanna River in Galtür village to Ischgl, Kappl, and Pians and reaches See village. Paznaun is a pristine alpine valley stretching 40 km with towering mountains on either side and authentic Austrian villages.
How to get to Ischgl ski resort?
From Innsbruck Airport By Public transport
The most convenient airport to get to Ischgl is Innsbruck Airport (INN). The flight takes 2 hours direct from London airports in the UK.
Once you arrive at Innsbruck Airport, when leaving the Nothing to Declare area, follow the sign to the bus. Within the arrivals terminal, the bus stop is located on the right, and follow the sign to the buses from just outside the main door.
There is the option to buy the bus ticket online or at the kiosk opposite the bus stop, known as Innsbruck Flughafen. The bus ticket machine accepts contactless cards or exact change. When you get on the bus, don’t forget to validate your ticket in the machine on the bus.
INSIDER TIP | You can purchase a combination ticket for your bus and train journey online at OBB and there is the option to reserve a seat on the train, which we’d recommend especially during busy times such as rush hour and weekends.
Live bus schedules show which bus will arrive next at the stop; take bus F to the Innsbruck Hauptbahnhof (HBF) station. The journey time from Innsbruck Airport to Innsbruck HBF train station takes approximately 20 minutes.
Several trains run from Innsbruck HBF to Landeck-Zams Bahnhof; we caught the train heading for Zurich. It was very busy, especially as it was around rush hour and most of the carriages have seat reservations, so it’s worth considering what time your train is and how important having a seat is for you. The train ticket costs €20.30.
Before getting on the train, we’d recommend stopping at Der Bäcker Ruetz, located in the station, for freshly baked goods that will keep you satisfied during the journey ahead. The train journey takes around an hour, following the river at the bottom of the valley and passing beautiful villages and mountain scenery, tempting you with what’s to come.
Arriving at Landeck-Zams Bahnhof station, the last leg of the journey is getting the 260 bus to Galtür (where we stayed) and passing through Ischgl on the way. The bus journey takes around one hour, and if you didn’t get a snack at the Ruetz bakery in Innsbruck, don’t worry, there is one at Landeck-Zams Bahnhof station.
We’d recommend packing as light as possible, which we know can be challenging when going on a ski trip! A few steps are going up and down the station, with the option to use a lift if you have brought heavy luggage such as skis and boots. Make sure to check the current bus timetable for the last bus of the day if travelling later in the day.
From Zurich by public transport
When you arrive at Zurich airport, take the bus, which takes 10 minutes to Zurich HB. There are direct trains from Zurich HB to Landeck-Zams, which takes around 3 hours, and from Landeck-Zams, take the 260 bus to Ischgl.
From Innsbruck by car
While travelling by public transport is convenient and the most sustainable way to travel, driving to Ischgl is also an option. There are a few things to consider when renting a car in Austria. Be prepared to be stopped by police as they regularly check the right paperwork and your driving licence. You will also be checked if you have the right tyres or snow chains for heavy snowfall.
Whilst we didn’t rent a car to travel around Innsbruck, the public transport system was reliable and relatively affordable. If you plan to explore a bit more outside the resort, then a car would be a great option for the most flexibility.
The drive from Innsbruck Airport to Ischgl will take around 1.5 hours, following the River Inn, passing Ötztal and Landeck. The route does not require any driving on mountain passes and is an easy drive.
However, if driving to Ischgl from Zurich, the most likely route will want to take you through Voralberg and the Bielerhöhe Pass which connects Vorarlberg to Ischgl is usually closed in winter. The alternative driving route will be along the S16 through the Arlberg Tunnel to Pians, leading into Paznaun Valley to Ischgl.
What is Ischgl known for?
When you first arrive in Ischgl, the pristine pistes are hidden from sight, mostly above the village in Idalp, where the majority of the ski runs are connected across the Silvretta Arena resort. The Silvretta Arena is a cross-border ski resort that connects Ischgl in Austria to Samnaun in Switzerland with a duty-free run.
Ischgl can often be overlooked by its more famous cousin St. Anton in the adjacent valley, which gained the eyes of the world for its challenging slopes and aprés ski scene. Whereas in recent years, Ischgl has put its name on the map after hosting successful live music concerts called ‘Top of the Mountain’.
Top of the Mountain ushers the start and close of the winter ski season with world-famous headlining acts. Last year in 2023, Black Eyed Peas finished the season playing their popular hits and previous acts include Elton John, Alicia Keys and Maria Carey.
How to get around Ischgl?
We stayed in the picturesque Galtür village, a short 10-minute bus ride from Ischgl. It’s easy to get around Ischgl car-free using the free bus shuttle service, which runs a regular service throughout the day, making your ski trip sustainable and budget-friendly. The bus service covers Paznaun Valley, connecting the neighbouring villages Galtür, Kappl and See for easy access to Ischgl.
Most of the bus stops have a live feed showing the time of the next bus. Our experience using the bus was mostly positive, with each one arriving promptly and was an easy way to explore the villages. If you miss a bus, the wait for the next one is usually only 10 to 15 minutes.
The ski bus for the winter season runs from mid-December to mid-April, and the VVT app shows the bus timetable at your current location. The buses are busiest late morning around 9 am and at the end of the day after the last lifts from 4 to 5 pm. If you’re looking for some entertainment and staying outside of Ischgl, make sure to check the last bus the night, which is usually around 8 pm. And if you’re lucky, you might experience the Aprés-ski bus party!
There are taxis available from the main road, Silvretta Straße. Taxi companies include West Taxi, Taxi Ischgl, Alpentaxi Ischgl and Taxi-Taxi; these also provide transfers to and from the airport if needed.
If you’re looking to explore beyond the Paznaun Valley, there is the option to hire an e-car with Flo-mobile, which is a car-sharing scheme that has locations in Ischgl and Kappl. To use the scheme, you register online and must have a valid driving licence and the car must be returned to the pickup location.
WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT ISCHGL?
The popularity of skiing in Ischgl has grown since lower-altitude resorts have struggled with unreliable snow conditions and shorter seasons.
As a high-altitude resort, Ischgl benefits from a longer ski season than most other resorts in Austria, where the most reliable conditions start in November and last until the end of April. Most of the slopes are above 2,000 metres in the Silvretta Arena, with the combination of snow cannons providing good snow conditions throughout the season.
We’d recommend avoiding the school holidays if possible, with fewer crowds during January and March with the possibility of getting better deals for accommodation and hotels. Most hotels close at the end of April and reopen again in June for the summer season.
Is Ischgl a beginner-friendly resort?
Ischgl is primarily known as a resort suited for intermediate to experienced skiers due to the majority of slopes catered to this difficulty: 58% red slopes and 21% black slopes. The remaining 21% of slopes are categorised as blue, and there is an area catered to beginners that is mostly located on the western side of Idalp, accessed by the Silvrettabahn cable car (A1).
There is a covered carpet and a T-bar lift (not ideal for snowboarders), which has a few short blue runs, with the Sonnenbahn offering a gently sloping blue better for snowboarders operated by a chairlift.
If you are a complete beginner or building your confidence as a skier or snowboarder we’d highly recommend booking a lesson with an instructor. When we have had lessons over the years, you notice that your progress is exponential compared to just hitting the slopes by yourself.
Once you have gained more confidence and are more of an advanced beginner, there are several easier slopes to enjoy; however, your options are more limited. Alp Trida (accessed via Idjoch) and Höllkar are the best options for advanced beginners offering long blue runs. It’s advised that beginners avoid the runs down from Idalp to Ischgl and Samnaun and it’s possible to take the Silvrettabahn back to Ischgl.
What’s it like to Ski or Snowboard in Ischgl?
While snowboarding in Ischgl, we quickly discovered how much fresh snow we witnessed in such a short space of time! As one of the best areas for consistent and reliable snowfall, many are captivated by the resort as its reputation continues to spread. With threats from climate change for many other lower-altitude resorts, Ischgl seems to be protected by warmer climates and more extreme weather changes.
There are several ski rental shops in Ischgl; we hired our gear with Silvretta Sports, conveniently located under the Silveretta cable car station known as A1 Silvrettabahn. The ski ticket office is also located opposite the ski shop, maximising the amount of time on the slopes. All the information you will need for navigating the Ischgl ski area will be found at the ticket office; don’t forget to pick up your ski map.
On our ride up the Slivrettabahn cable car, we met a lovely couple who shared with us why they chose to ski in Ischgl. They happily shared that Austria is one of their favourite places to ski, with some of the best snowfall and runs that they haven’t been able to find elsewhere. The couple had travelled over 10+ hours from South Africa to enjoy a wonderful ski trip in Austria, and they have returned again and again.
After this conversation, you could say this fuelled us with anticipation about the prospect of what was waiting for us at the top of the cable car. Arriving at Idalp for the first time was a little overwhelming to navigate; as are most ski resorts for the first time, we took the time to gather our bearings and make a plan. One reason that Idalp can be a bit of a challenge to navigate is that you are unable to see the majority of runs as you come off the cable car and they crisscross each other.
At the top of Idalp, you can either go right or left outside the cable car station with 239 km of slopes and 15 km of ski routes to explore. We started off exploring the eastern side of the ski resort, taking run 2 to warm up on the Höllkar Valley, which has a lovely wide run 23. For lunch we stopped at the Schwarzwand Mountain restaurant, which made the ideal lunch spot, serving pizza and other Austrian dishes.
There are two Snowparks suited for freestyle riders, one located next to the Velillbahn (B1) and the second next to Flimjochbhan (B2). The parks feature a bag jump, rails and slides, boxes, ramps and a fun slope for everyone to enjoy, both intermediate and advanced skiers and snowboarders.
A unique ski experience at Ischgl is crossing the border from Austria to Switzerland through the ski resort, which takes you to Samnaun village. Referred to as the duty-free run or smugglers circuit ‘Schmugglerrunde’, there are gold, silver and bronze circuits to choose from and checkpoints to pass. Download the Ischgl app to see the routes and complete a circuit that will give you a chance to win prizes, such as a ride on the zipline, a hotel stay and a ski pass with concert tickets.
Both duty-free runs 60 (blue difficulty) and 80 (red difficulty) lead to Samnaun in Switzerland, accessed via Idjoch and Palinkopf; the latter is much more difficult and covers a distance of 10 km. Historically, smugglers would take local produce across the border to Switzerland and follow in the smuggler’s footsteps or ski tracks for a memorable experience.
Be prepared to carry your passport, as you may be stopped by customs officers on your way back to Austria as bags are checked to ensure you are within your limits for duty-free goods! From Samnaun there are two modern cable cars; one is a double-decker cable car that will take you back into the Silvretta Arena and Alp Trida.
For the best panoramic views, head to Pardatschgrat, Viderjoch and Palinkopf, where you can enjoy sweeping mountain vistas and the chance to get a great picture! Check out the online webcams to watch a live stream of the current conditions in Ischgl.
Where’s the best aprés-ski in Ischgl?
Aprés-ski is the term used to describe when skiers and snowboarders, after a day on the slopes, will get together in the local bars to socialise, enjoy live music and drinks and have a good time. Typically, everyone wears their ski gear; some might wear crazy costumes for fun, but it’s all about enjoying yourself.
After a day on the slopes in Ischgl, the après-ski scene is strong! The party starts on the slopes at Thaya, a traditional Tyrolean hut with a live DJ, incredible views, and a fun atmosphere. From here you can either take the 37 run back into Ischgl (not recommended after a few drinks) or E1 lift the 25 run and C1 lift back to Idalp.
As you arrive back in Ischgl, you can ski directly to Schatzi via run 1a from Idalp to Ischgl, located opposite the A2 Pardatschgratbahn cable car. Perhaps one of the most well-known spots for aprés-ski over the years, there are dancers at the bar and it attracts predominantly a male audience.
There are many options to choose from in Ischgl; whether you’re looking for a relaxing beer or a party, both can be found in abundance. For a more classic Austrian aprés-ski scene, head to Kuhstall, where traditional German music fills the air and there is a great atmosphere. Trofana Alm offers a nightclub ambience, set over two floors with plenty of table dancing and a strong party scene.
Kitzloch is also found near the Pardatschgratbahn cable car, one of the first stops after a day on the slopes for many. A lively atmosphere can be found here, with the chance to also enjoy delicious traditional Tyrolean food. Freeride is one of the newer aprés-ski scenes on the block, gaining popularity with good music and a fun atmosphere.
If you’re looking for the ultimate chilled pub after a day out on the slopes, head to the Golden Eagle for a relaxed, cosy ambience, serving local beers, and the chance to experience ‘Gemütlichkeit’ surrounded by friends.
Is Ischgl Good for Snowboarders?
As snowboarders, we appreciate tips for exploring a new ski resort with the best spots for snowboarders and places to potentially avoid. We found the majority of Ischgl snowboarder-friendly; however, we were told to avoid the lower runs from Idalp back to Ischgl as, especially later in the day, it can get icy and there are cat tracks, which can make it difficult.
Ischgl has a few T-bars instead of button lifts, which can be the most uncomfortable lifts for snowboarders, as they are designed for skiers. Don’t worry though; the majority of Ischgl ski runs have modern ski lifts across the area for you to explore with ease.
Other places to avoid in Ischgl as a snowboarder are run 80, and run 37 are more suited to experienced skiers. Another potential run to avoid is 15 from the top of Greitspitze; it’s very narrow and a bit of a challenge in heavy snow conditions.
HOW EXPENSIVE IS ISchgl RESORT?
Ischgl's ski season runs from late November to early May, and it is considered one of the more expensive resorts in Europe. When compared to other snowsure ski resorts in France, the real cost of staying in Ischgl can be slightly lower, especially when taking into account the size of the skiable area in the ski resort. With over 200 km of pistes, Ischgl ski resort provides fantastic value for money, with plenty of slopes to explore for the price of a ski pass.
There are a few ways to reduce costs whilst staying in Ischgl, this includes staying somewhere that includes breakfast (most places will offer this) and staying in self-catering accommodation to save money on eating out.
Staying in the neighbouring villages of Galtür, Kappl and See will offer more options for places to stay and can provide good value, especially with the free bus shuttle connecting to Ischgl, making it a great choice.
There are two ski passes available for Ischgl; this includes the VIP ski pass and the Silvretta ski pass. The VIP ski pass is only available to those staying in Ischgl and Mathon, where hotel/accommodation guests are given a digital guest card (PIA), which gives you a discount for the VIP ski pass.
The VIP ski pass grants access to 46 lifts in Ischgl and Samnaun. From November 2024 to May 2025, a ski pass will cost €76 for a day pass, and if you book for 6 days or more, there are special discounts, which will be €284 instead of €344.50. Discounts are available for 65+ year-olds and children under 17 years old. Children under 10 travel free across the resort with an adult.
Whereas the Silvretta ski pass provides access to 74 lifts, including Ischgl, Samnaun, Galtür, Kappl, and See. Children under the age of 8 can ski for free when with a parent who is available to pick up a ticket office. A day pass for the Silvretta ski pass costs the same as the VIP at €76, and for 6 days it will cost €408.50.
Discounts for the Silvretta ski pass include children under 17 years old, people over the age of 65, and children under the age of 8 who can travel for free across the ski area. If you purchase a ski pass for 4 days or more in Ischgl, you will be eligible for a 20% discount at the Silvretta Therme spa.
What food and drink to try in Ischgl?
When staying in Ischgl, it’s time to try some delicious Tyrolean cuisine, most of which are hearty dishes guaranteed to satisfy your cravings after a day on the slopes. Most restaurants in the ski resort and village serve traditional dishes and a selection of other cuisines, usually pizza and chips, etc.
One of our favourite dishes was a Tiroler Marend, a selection of tasty cured meats such as speck, local cheeses and bread that serves as the ideal lunch with a great view of the mountains. Somewhat similar to mac and cheese but in our opinion far superior, Kasspatzln is a doughy egg noodle combined with cheese and topped with fried onions on top.
For dessert, our top options were strauben, a curly piece of art made of pancake-like batter that is fried and covered in powdered sugar and with a side of cranberry jam, which we had tried in South Tyrol last year. Kaiserschmarren is a wonderful soft pancake that is chopped into smaller pieces and usually served with a sweet sauce—a local favourite!
Another discovery was ski water, or skiwasser/schiwasser, an alcohol-free cordial drink made from lemon juice, raspberry syrup and water and is a good alternative for those not drinking beer.
What activities are available for non-skiers?
Ischgl has a wide range of non-skier activities to keep you entertained, especially if you don’t plan to ski for the entire trip mix it up with a few of the following. There are three toboggan runs within the Ischgl area, the longest run is found in Ischgl, spanning 7 km from the top of Idalp and is open in the evenings on Monday and Thursday, speeding into the finish in Ischgl village. Other toboggan runs are also available in Kappl and See for the ultimate thrill.
The Tourist Information Centre is a short 7-minute walk from the ticket office, which provides detailed information for non-skier activities that are available during your visit. It’s worth checking if particular routes or services are open before you plan your activity.
Our top choice for a non-skier activity in Ischgl is snowshoeing in the beautiful Wildpark Silvretta, a nature park surrounded by endless pine trees and the chance to spot local wildlife. We hired snowshoes from Intersport in Galtür, caught the bus to Wildpark Silvretta and went on a wonderful hike surrounded by pristine nature, a surreal winter wonderland experience.
Other activities include Nordic cross-country skiing, there are over 4,000 km of trails to choose from, traversing across the most beautiful landscapes. If you’re in search of an easy activity that is completely free, then explore Ischgl on foot, there are plenty of trails taking you from mountain huts, to mountain viewpoints and through beautiful forests.
Take a walk through the centre of Ischgl, especially along Dorfstraße, the main street which is pretty at night with glowing lights and a lively atmosphere. Traverse across the snow on fat bikes in Kappl and Galtür, this can only be done with a guide but is a great alternative to the classic winter activities.
After all that adventure, it’s time to relax at the stunning Silvretta Therme, a modern and luxurious spa with an outdoor pool bar. Silvretta Therme Spa is a large complex with a beautiful pool overlooking the village of Ischgl and the Paznaun Valley. There is the option to use either the spa or pool or both facilities and is set over multiple floors.
Silvretta Therme has unisex changing rooms and you gain access everywhere with a wristband that locks your locker. You must pay for all drinks and food before you leave otherwise the barrier will not let you exit. At certain times of the year, there is an outdoor ice skating rink.
Where to stay in Ischgl?
There are a variety of places to stay in Ischgl, including self-catering chalets to more luxurious hotels. When staying in Ischgl, prepare to pay a bit more for the central location and proximity to ski lifts. Ischgl is limited while searching for budget accommodation; however, staying outside of Ischgl in Galtür and Kappl can offer better prices connected by the free shuttle bus, making it a great option.
We stayed in Galtür during our ski trip in Ischgl at the Zontaja Hotel, a beautiful family-run hotel. It has a cosy alpine feel with a warm fireplace and scenic rooms. Most packages include a buffet breakfast, afternoon snack, and dinner during your stay, saving money on eating out.
If you purchase a package that includes dinner, this also includes drinks with your meal. A bonus for staying at Zontaja Hotel is the indoor spa, located downstairs, which is included for all guests, and spa robes are provided in your room on arrival.
Each week the hotel hosts a banquet dinner, a chance for guests to come together and experience Tyrolean hospitality and delicious cuisine. The great thing about Zontaja Hotel is that it’s located right next to the bus stop, making your morning commute to Ischgl a breeze. The hotel has a ski locker room for all your ski gear, and there is also a car park for guests.
