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This press trip was organised by the Jordan Tourism Board (JTB). The opinions expressed within this article are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions and beliefs of JTB.
One of the best ways to explore Jordan is on foot, it has some of the most captivating hikes in the world. Adventurers from around the globe are drawn to the challenging Jordan Trail, the many wonderful wadi hikes and to climb to the summit of Mount Nebo.
During our incredible 10 days in Jordan, the best memories were made hiking Wadi Hasa, Wadi Mujib and the back door trail to Petra. On our travels, we make a conscious effort to avoid the crowds by visiting less travelled destinations, getting up early, or visiting on less busy days.
Petra is one of the world's seven wonders. There isn’t much you can do to avoid people, as this is one of Jordan’s most popular attractions with over a million people visiting each year.
The Back door to the Monastery hike is part of the Jordan Trail and is less visited by most visitors to Petra. The hike is also known as the back entrance to Petra. It offers a chance to explore the surroundings of the site without huge crowds. This hike to the Monastery (Ad Deir) is a must when visiting Petra and is one of the largest monuments in Petra.
As it was our first time in Jordan, we didn’t know what to expect in terms of hiking in Jordan and with little experience, we had a guide to take us along the trail to the Monastery through the back entrance.
This hiking guide will share everything you need to know before heading out on the back door to the Monastery trail including how to get there, whether a guide is necessary and what to expect on the route.
Back Door to Monastery Hike Facts
Please note | This hiking guide was written during our time hiking the back door trail to Petra. Recently, the trail has been improved and restored in places, making it safer to walk along this route. Please be aware that things can change, depending on weather conditions and it’s worth checking with the tourism board or Jordan Trail for current conditions of the route.
The distance from Little Petra to the Monastery (Ad Deir) is 7 km and taking the 4WD minibus from Little Petra skips out 4.7 km, leaving around 2.3 km to walk to the Monastery. If hiking from Little Petra, this would take approximately an hour longer than the total duration below, depending on your pace.
The distance between the Monastery to the Petra visitor centre entrance is 5.6 km. The facts below take into account using the 4WD minibus from Little Petra to the start of the hike.
Distance | 12.6 km
Duration | 4-5 hours
Starting point | Little Petra Visitors Centre
Ending point | Petra Visitors Centre
Route type | one-way
Difficulty | Easy (without the heat)
When is the best time to hike the back door trail to Petra?
We hiked in May when temperatures can reach a blistering 50°C in the summer months. Jordan’s weather may surprise you, as the country's unique geography influences its climate. The weather in Jordan isn’t always as hot as you might think; Petra can even experience snowfall in the winter months from December to February.
There are four main seasons in Jordan, spring (March to May), summer (June to August), autumn (September to November) and winter (December to February). The lowest temperatures in Jordan get down to 5°C in the winter and up to 50°C in the summer.
Flash floods are possible during Jordan's rainy season, which lasts from November to March and contributes to the majority of annual rainfall. Jordan is best visited in the spring, summer, and autumn months when temperatures are much milder.
As a result of climate change, flash floods have become more frequent and there have been fatal incidents in Petra after heavy rainfall. There are efforts to maintain and restore Nabatean water management systems, including small dams, terraces and water channels, which will help reduce the impact of flash floods.
Where to stay near the back door trail to Petra?
As the trail starts near Little Petra, we’d recommend staying somewhere overnight near the start of the trail. It’s a great idea to combine your stay in the area with visiting Little Petra too.
Another option that will give you more options in terms of accommodation is staying in Wadi Musa and catching the free shuttle from the Petra Visitors Centre to Little Petra. Here is a list of places to stay when doing the back door trail to Petra.
The hike is in one direction, finishing at the Petra visitors centre in Wadi Musa and can make sense to stay here to night or continue your Jordan adventures from there. Otherwise, if you choose to stay in Little Petra, this saves more time in the morning, allowing for an early start to hit the trail.
Ammarin Bedouin Camp
The night before the hike, we stayed near Little Petra in the Ammarin Bedouin Camp. The day we arrived we explored Little Petra and escaping the midday heat at the camp. Our guide Mutaz cooked a delicious broad bean tomato lunch, a tuna salad with fresh local bread.
The Little Petra cats were the funniest part of staying at the camp, and we were told that they don't accept no for an answer. These tough, hardy desert cats could smell our lunch (most likely the enticing tuna) and were determined to join, so we took turns trying to keep them away until we were full and had some to share with them.
Don’t miss wine tasting in Little Petra, this completely took us by surprise, as Jordan is predominantly a Muslim country and many locals do not drink alcohol. We sampled Jordan River Wines in Little Petra for a wine tasting, which was exceptional.
The Ammarin Bedouin Camp is the only accommodation within the UNESCO World Heritage Site and is owned and managed by Bedouins. The site has fabric tents with single beds inside and plug sockets to charge your electrics. There are also showers and toilets and a few shaded areas to relax.
While the accommodation may be more basic when compared to luxury camps nearby, the remote location is unique and you are directly supporting the nomadic Bedouins.
Petra Seasons Luxury Resort
If you’re looking for a little more luxury in Little Petra, then Petra Seasons Luxury Resort comes highly recommended in the area with unique bubble rooms and other types of rooms, swimming pool surrounded by a beautiful landscape.
Little Petra Bedouin Camp
This place turns into another wonder of the world at night, where the rocks surrounding the camp are lit with candles, creating a magical atmosphere. The Little Petra Bedouin Camp features modern rooms, alongside traditional Bedouin culture.
Seven Wonders Luxury Camp
A family run camp in Little Petra, Seven Wonders Luxury Camp is a glamping site only a 20-minute walk from the Little Petra entrance. They serve buffet breakfasts and dinners and have a variety of luxury domes and cabins to choose from.
Why do the Back Door trail to Petra?
There are several reasons why you should consider doing the back door hike to Petra. The first is that the hike will take you away from the crowded entrance of the Petra Visitors Centre, allowing you to enjoy the surroundings of Petra with fewer people as you will be walking in the opposite direction to most.
It’s worth noting that before you start the hike you must purchase your Petra entrance ticket (included in the Jordan Pass), which is possible to buy at the Little Petra visitor’s entrance. A day ticket costs 50 JD and read our 31 Things to know before visiting Jordan for more information on whether the Jordan Pass is worth it.
Second, one thing we didn’t realise about Petra is the huge scale of the site (264 km2) and it’s impossible to see everything in one day. This hike only requires you to walk in one direction, whereas, if you enter from the Petra Visitors Centre you will be doubling the distance you walk in a day. This hike allows you to spend more time enjoying the sights of Petra.
Entering Petra from Little Petra means that you will be avoiding the 800 steps uphill to the Monastery and instead you will be cruising downhill. If you struggle with steps downhill, it could be worthwhile to have hiking poles but these aren’t necessary for this hike.
The Monastery is far less visited than the Treasury which is the most popular attraction and closest to the Petra visitor centre. It provides a more off-the-beaten-path experience of Petra, while still visiting the main attractions on your way to the Petra visitor centre.
What do I need to know before hiking the back door trail?
The hike from Little Petra to the Monastery is 2.3 km and will take around 45 minutes to an hour if you take the 4WD minibus from Little Petra to the closer starting point. The remainder of the hike from the Monastery to the Petra visitors centre covers approximately 5.6 km and will take around 3-4 hours on top of the hour hike to the Monastery.
Take plenty of water with you. There is a café at the Monastery that serves juices and ice cream which is a nice treat after the first part of the hike. Please be careful with any served with ice, as it is a very remote area it is unclear how safe it could be to drink (as tempting as it is to have it with the heat).
There is little to no shade along most of the route, bring sun protection and cover your head with a hat or scarf to avoid sunburn and heat exhaustion. Wear lightweight clothing that is breathable and sturdy footwear that supports your ankles, hiking boots or supportive sandals are recommended.
We wore our Hurricane Teva sandals which gave enough grip and allowed our feet to breathe, the only downside was that our feet were very dusty afterwards!
Even if you take the 4WD minibus to the beginning of the steps of the back door trail, you will need a good level of fitness to walk this route, as there is a decent incline, especially at the start of the hike. It’s worth packing a packed lunch with you (keep it light). There are a few restaurants in Petra which are found near Qasr al-Bint and are quite pricey.
Is it necessary to have a guide on the back door trail to Petra?
There is no requirement to have a guide for the back door trail to Petra or for the whole of the UNESCO World Heritage site of Petra. While there may be encouragement from the ticket office or guides looking to show you around, it will provide you with more insider knowledge of this spectacular site.
How to get to the start of the back door Hike to the monastery?
From Petra
There are two free car parks close to the Petra visitor centre, the first car park is located opposite the JETT bus station and in front of the Petra Moon Hotel. Alternatively, the second car park is located over the bridge on the right. Both car parks are only a few minutes walk from the Petra entrance.
If you’re staying in Wadi Musa, and your hotel is a little further than walking distance to the Petra main entrance, they may offer a free shuttle to Petra. From the Petra visitor centre catch the free shuttle to Little Petra. To find the bus walk up the stairs in front of the Petra museum and you’ll find the bus car park and the buses are located next to the toilets in the bus car park.
The journey takes around 15 minutes, and the free shuttle runs from 7 am to 3 pm (times can vary and worth checking at the Petra visitor centre for up to date information) around every 30 minutes.
Most of the shuttles are run by demand, if you arrive at 7 am and the bus isn’t full, the bus may wait for a few others to join before departing. If you arrive here first, it is possible to purchase your Petra entrance ticket.
We’d highly recommend purchasing the Jordan Pass if this works with the itinerary and must be purchased online before arriving in the country. Buying the Jordan Pass will mean you’ll avoid the long queues at the visitor centre and arrive earlier at Little Petra. Make sure to bring your passport when showing your Jordan Pass to get your Petra ticket.
From Little Petra
Once you arrive in Little Petra, if you arrive by shuttle, you will be dropped off at the Little Petra entrance and there is a free car park opposite if you arrive by car. This is where you can purchase both Petra entrance tickets and the 4WD minibus shuttle to the shortcut start of the trail. It costs 5 JD to catch a ride on the 4WD minibus from Little Petra to approximately 4.7 km along the route, to where you can start hiking.
At Little Petra there is a ticket kiosk, one side is where you purchase a ticket and the other to hire a guide for the day while exploring Petra. It is not compulsory to have a guide when visiting Petra. While it may not be for everyone, having a guide will share insider information about this spectacular site and support locals reliant on tourism for work.
On the shuttle, you will pass by a ticket booth where you will be asked to show your Petra entrance ticket. The journey in the shuttle takes around 15 minutes along a dirt track to the back door trail to the Monastery (Ad Deir).
BACK DOOR hike to Monastery Petra route
4WD shortcut
In our opinion, hiking the Petra back door trail is one of the best ways to see Petra, as you avoid climbing the several hundred steps up to the Monastery and only have to conquer them one way, which is down.
At the entrance of Little Petra, there is a ticket office to purchase tickets for Petra, without the need to go to the Petra visitor centre in Wadi Musa. Next to the ticket office is a booth to arrange a guide to go with you along the hike and through Petra.
There is no obligation to hire a guide, you can do the hike safely without a guide and explore Petra by yourself. We would usually prefer to hike without a guide, which allows us to go at our own (slow) pace as we usually stop to take photos and video. If you’re interested in the history and hearing the stories along this route, its worth hiring a guide for a deeper insight into Petra.
You must purchase a separate ticket for the 4WD minibus for 5 JD per person. The schedule for this journey is not fixed and usually starts from 8 am. We waited a long time for the next, so expect to wait a while here unless you are lucky and there is one waiting for you!
A large 4WD minibus will take you approximately 4.7 km along the trail and make sure you have your Petra tickets before boarding. The 4WD transport ticket is only valid for one journey. If you plan to return to Little Petra you can also purchase an additional return ticket from where you are dropped off as this is not included in the ticket price.
However, we’d recommend getting the free shuttle service from Petra to Little Petra and make sure to check the timetable so that you don’t miss the last one (usually around 3pm).
The hike follows the ancient Nabataean route to Petra, passing through Wadi Siq al-Ghurab and following the sandstone mountains onto an impressive plateau with views across the sandy plains of Wadi Araba.
Do not ride the mules or donkeys
When we arrived at the beginning of the trail with the 4WD, Bedouins were waiting for us with mules and donkeys offering rides up to the Monastery. The first part of the hike is a fairly steep incline, requiring a good fitness level, especially when combined with the heat.
If you do not have a good fitness level for this hike, please do not ride on a mule or donkey. You should only complete this hike if you have the physical fitness to do it without the help of an animal.
Unfortunately, these animals are not well cared for and we saw many along the way tied up with no shade and no water. Please do not support riding animals in Petra, animal welfare and ethical practices are not evident as outlined by PETA and from our observations.
If unsure how to respond when offered a ride without offending, politely decline to ride mules, donkeys or camels in Petra. Most Bedouins we spoke to along the route respected our decision and wished us a nice day.
We must reiterate, if you do not have the appropriate fitness to hike this trail you should not be relying on mistreated mules or supporting wildlife tourism in this way.
Whilst some guides may reassure you that their animal is well kept and looked after, this may be the case however, the majority of animals in Petra are overworked in harsh conditions and malnourished.
The route to the Monastery
The route without the use of 4WD starts here and the minibus is located next to the ticket office in Little Petra. There is no option to drive yourself to the shorter starting point, as Bedouins are only allowed to drive inside the UNESCO World Heritage site.
There are signs where you are dropped off for the Monastery but signs are few and far between. We’d recommend downloading offline maps of the route. Jordan Trail has a GPS download of the trail from Little Petra to Petra (Wadi Musa) and you can download it here under the GPS heading.
The path is well-defined in most places with steps built in for better conditions on the trail. Its popularity in recent years has grown, which means you probably won’t be the only one hiking this route to the Monastery.
As you climb up into the mountains, the views only get better with breathtaking vistas of the Shara Mountains. You will reach a natural rock plateau is placed high above the Wadi Siyyagh. This has some of the most beautiful views on the hike, we’d recommend stopping here for a few minutes to take in your surroundings.
If you have a severe fear of heights, the route is slightly exposed in a few areas, however, the trail was recently improved for safety and is secure.
There are a few Bedouin coffee and tea rest stops along the way, the one with the best views is End of the World Coffee which is located on the plateau and only a short walk further to the Monastery.
The hike is not accessible-friendly, as there are many steep sections and steps. However, from the main Petra visitor entrance, it is possible to hire an electric golf buggy to some of the sites but not to the Monastery.
While we mentioned earlier that you need a good level of fitness, the route is relatively easy and does not have any technical or challenging sections which makes it suitable for most.
As you walk away from the plateau, the Monastery reveals itself just around the corner and while it is less decorated than the Treasury, it is nonetheless an impressive sight.
The hike took us around an hour to walk 2.3 km, this was at a slow pace with many photo stops along the way to the Monastery. There were many others who were walking much faster and probably took around 50 minutes.
THE MONASTERY
We admired the incredible craftsmanship of the Nabataens from the Bedouin café, sipping on some refreshing orange juice. If you walk from Little Petra to the Monastery without the 4WD shortcut, then it will approximately two hours, make sure to take plenty of water with you.
After pulling ourselves away from the magnificent Monastery, we started our descent into the heart of Petra. We encouraged the many we passed who were exhausted from the climb of 800 odd steps in the midday sun if only they had known about the back door route!
We underestimated the size of Petra, it spans over 264 km2, making it almost impossible to see everything on offer in one day. If you only have a limited amount of time to visit Petra, take the back door trail to the Monastery for a more unique and memorable experience.
